Paint correction is the only process that actually removes defects instead of hiding them. Swirl marks, wash marring, holograms from a bad polisher, oxidation and light scratches all live in the top few microns of clear coat. By levelling that layer with machine polishing, light reflects evenly again — which is why corrected paint reads as deep and wet rather than dull and grey.

Every correction starts with measurement, not polishing. We take digital paint thickness readings panel by panel to know exactly how much clear coat we have to work with, then decontaminate chemically and mechanically: iron fallout dissolver, tar remover and a clay bar so nothing bonded gets dragged around by a pad. We test-spot different pad and compound combinations on your paint to find the least aggressive setup that still delivers the result — hard German clear and soft Japanese clear behave nothing alike.

From there it is one to three stages: a cutting pass to remove defects, a refining pass to raise gloss, and a jewelling pass on darker colours where the finish has to be flawless. Each pass is inspected under a combination of raking sunlight and high-CRI inspection lights so nothing is missed. The car leaves with a six-month sealant, and if you plan to add a ceramic coating this is the correct step to do first — a coating locks in whatever condition the paint is in.